Electrical

You would think that this should be really simple. This boat has a simple electrical panel with three fuses and switches. A previous owner decided that was just not enough.

I pulled the panel out to clean up behind it and found quite a mess. Extra switches and indicator lights had been added. There were multiple splices in the wires making me wonder if anything worked.

Whoever modified the panel did a crappy job of drilling holes (never mind the crappy wiring!). A proper fix would be to completely replace the wood panel, and that may be a future job. For now, I may just cover everything up and rewire the original panel.

Other problems - The bow navigation light needs to be replaced, the connector for the masthead light needs to be repaired and the cabin light needs to be replaced. I should also get a proper battery box.

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Battery box area behind the panel. There is a bit of a mess to clean up. Note all the blue crimp-on connectors on the wires. The previous owner must have had stock in the company that makes them!

Front side of the panel. The black control panel has been augmented by two extra fuses and switches and five red and green lights. The lights are not connected to anything! I'm not sure if the voltmeter is original or not.

Back side of the panel. Its an ugly mess. The switches are corroded and at least one is broken.

The rewired panel. I kept the voltmeter. The three original fuseholders and switches have been replaced. A fourth fuseholder has been added for a "master" fuse. The 12V power outlet was replaced with a plastic unit and is protected with an in-line fuse.

I covered the area with all the extra holes with a piece of smoked plexiglass. The red switch to the left of the voltmeter is a battery test switch. At some point I may decide to completely replace this wood panel and make it look neater, but for now, this will have to do.

This boat had a knot meter, but it was removed before I got the boat. The sensor paddle-wheel was located in this thru-hull fitting.

I managed to get the knot meter and paddle-wheel back from the previous owner. He wasn't using it.

The paddle-wheel was loaded up with dirt and crud and wouldn't turn. The magnets had attracted iron bits and the iron had corroded - which had cracked the plastic holding the magnet. After cleaning it all up I glued tyhe magnet in place. Hopefully, it holds.

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Revised 02/07/2005

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	Battery box area behind the panel. There is a bit of a mess to clean up. Note all the blue crimp-on connectors on the wires. The previous owner must have had stock in the company that makes them!
	Front side of the panel. The black control panel has been augmented by two extra fuses and switches and five red and green lights. The lights are not connected to anything! I'm not sure if the voltmeter is original or not.
	Back side of the panel. Its an ugly mess. The switches are corroded and at least one is broken.
	The rewired panel. I kept the voltmeter. The three original fuseholders and switches have been replaced. A fourth fuseholder has been added for a "master" fuse. The 12V power outlet was replaced with a plastic unit and is protected with an in-line fuse.
	I covered the area with all the extra holes with a piece of smoked plexiglass. The red switch to the left of the voltmeter is a battery test switch. At some point I may decide to completely replace this wood panel and make it look neater, but for now, this will have to do.
	This boat had a knot meter, but it was removed before I got the boat. The sensor paddle-wheel was located in this thru-hull fitting.
	I managed to get the knot meter and paddle-wheel back from the previous owner. He wasn't using it.
	The paddle-wheel was loaded up with dirt and crud and wouldn't turn. The magnets had attracted iron bits and the iron had corroded - which had cracked the plastic holding the magnet. After cleaning it all up I glued tyhe magnet in place. Hopefully, it holds.